Memories of Hong Kong inevitably fade after moving away. But my recollection of that historic day 27 years ago, when the city returned to China, remains vivid.
The last day of British rule was marked by an intoxicating mix of excitement, optimism, some sadness and much uncertainty. We had no idea what was going to happen. The answer, it turned out, was not a lot, at least in the early days.
Much has changed since. But Hong Kong’s often wet summer weather has not. The day the sun went down on this part of the British Empire, on June 30, 1997, everyone got drenched.
The speech of Prince Charles, as he was then, was barely audible amid the sound of rain pummeling umbrellas.
I was sent to cover then British prime minister Tony Blair’s meeting with Chinese president Jiang Zemin in Hung Hom. I stood in the pouring rain, watching the lowering of the British flag at midnight – on television, through the window of a bar. It was not how I had imagined myself marking the long-awaited moment.
After arriving back home in Mui Wo in the early hours, I watched on TV as the main PLA contingent rolled across the border. It was greeted by flag-waving patriots. But the sight was unfamiliar and a little scary.
Thankfully, they disappeared into their barracks and have barely emerged since.
Many residents, especially those from overseas, fled what they thought would be a sinking ship. A lawyer friend told me: “Don’t hang on”. Well, I hung on for another 25 years. And I am glad I did.
Hong Kong gave me opportunities, enabling me to study law while reporting and editing for the South China Morning Post. Locals made me feel welcome. I have many memories to treasure. It was, therefore, difficult to leave in 2022.
Like other former residents now living overseas, there was a period of grieving for my former life in the city. We also grieve for the Hong Kong that existed before the protests, pandemic and political transformation.
Life in England is better than I expected. I am very much enjoying living in the countryside. It makes a refreshing change after 28 years in a crowded city. But when I look through my pictures of the harbour at sunset, the waterfall in Mui Wo or Mid-Autumn Festival lanterns, my mind drifts 6,000 miles (9,600km) away.
I have a new home. But it is still a home from home. I wish Hong Kong well as it remembers the handover and reflects on all that has happened since.
